Saturday, October 31, 2009

Designing Jacquard Weave Structures

The interleaved threadings I've woven in the past are compound structures usually based on 4-end straight twill. Each of the two warps is weaving some form of 4-end straight twill, not necessarily the same 4-end straight twill as the other warp at any given area of the cloth.

Because I'd like to try some jacquard designs based on these structures, I sat down and analyzed how many possible interlacements there are, so I can set up some Photoshop "pattern presets" for them. Then, I can use those presets to "fill" areas of color in a design.

As it turns out, there are 9 possible combinations of 3/1, 1/3, and 2/2 straight twill when using 2 warps. Here's a diagram showing the possibilities. Assume two warps - one dark grey, one light grey - alternating thread by thread, and a single white weft.

On the diagonal from upper left to lower right, the interlacements move from weft-faced to warp-faced. On the diagonal from lower left to upper right, the interlacements move from more dark warp than light to more light warp than dark.

I always knew that the interleaved threadings gave me a lot more visual color blends than just the 3 colors of yarn in the cloth, but I'd never stopped to analyze just how many.

These will make a good set of jacquard structures, I think. Can't wait to try them out!

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